Sunscreen facts, and myths busted!

1. What does SPF really mean?
Your SPF (sun protection factor) indicates the extra length of time that the sunscreen allows you to spend in the sun before you burn. This means a 30+ sunscreen technically allows you allows you to be in the sun 30x the time it takes you to burn. It does not give you an accurate time measure for UVA damage.

So if without sunscreen I would normally start to burn within 10 mins in the sun, a 30+ sunscreen will give me 300 mins in the sun (5hours).

Now this is all fine and good, but these times are measured in laboratory conditions, not under normal use on the beach. When we towel down, wipe our face, swim etc we will remove the sunscreen.

SPF measures the time taken to burn when out in the sun. It does NOT measure the level of protection against UVA rays at all.


2 How long do I have to wait after I apply my sunscreen?
Sunscreens that contain chemical absorbers will need to be applied a half hour before sun exposure to allow the active ingredients to go to work in the skin. Physical sunscreens (such as titanium dioxide or zinc oxide) will shield the skin immediately.

3. What is the difference between UVA and UVB rays?
Damage from UVB rays will show up as a burn and peeling. UVB rays don’t penetrate as deeply as UVA rays, but the damage is visible.
UVA rays penetrate far more deeply that UVB and the immediate damage is not visible as a burn, however the damage is there. UVA rays damage cells and cause pigmentation issues and aging. UVA and UVB wave lengths are measured in nanometers (nm). UVB=290-320Nm, UVA =320-400 Nm


4. What does Broad Spectrum mean?
It means that the sunscreen will offer protection against both UVA and UVB rays. If your sunscreen is not broad spectrum you may not be getting UVA protection.


5. But my foundation has an SPF….
Don't rely on make up with an SPF. You need a nice even application of broad spectrum sunscreen on the skin. A quick slap of foundation won't do the job thoroughly and what about the neck and décolletage?


6 .When do I put sunscreen on if I want to use my skincare and my make up?
When you want to integrate a sunscreen into your skin care and make up routine here is the ideal way:

1 cleanse
2 serum
3 moisturizer and eye cream (or use a moisturizer with 30+ sunscreen)
4 then make up

What is a physical sunscreen?
A physical sunscreen offers a physical barrier on the skin against UV light – they create a layer on the surface of the skin that reflects UV rays. Physical sunscreens are those containing zinc oxide or titanium dioxide as their active ingredients (naturally derived ingredients). Some products contain only physical screens (e.g. Invisible Zinc); while others may combine smaller concentrations of physical sunscreens with chemical ingredients that work by being absorbed into the skin before protecting the skin.

7. What common ingredients are used in sunscreens?

Physical Blockers:
Zinc oxide: a true broad spectrum sunscreen, covering the full UV range (290-400nm) Non irritating so excellent for sensitized skins.

Titanium dioxide: another non-chemical broad spectrum ingredient but with not as much coverage of the UV spectrum as Zinc Oxide (UVA and UVB protection 290- 350 nm aprox)

Chemical Absorbers:

UVA Chemical Absorbers:
Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (also known as Parsol or Avobenzone): this is a UVA protector only (UVA 320-400 nm aprox)

Tinosorb M: A UVA absorber.



UVB Chemical Absorbers:
Octyl Methoxycinnamate: This protects against UVB only (UVB only 290-320 mn)

Octyl Salicylate: protects against UVB only (290-320nm aprox)

Octyl Dimethyl Paba: protects against UVB only (290-320nm aprox)

Octocrylene: protects against UVB and a very small portion of the UVA spectrum (290-320nm aprox)





Many brands use chemical ingredients as they make the formula feel more lightweight.
Most products will contain a combination of UVA screens and UVB screens, to create a broad spectrum block. (Be aware that not all sunscreens are broad spectrum.)

Have a look at the attached charts!


8. Isn’t a little sun good for you?
Being out in the sun definitely feels good and is great for your mindset and for Vitamin D, but make sure you Slip,Slop, Slap so you don’t get UV damage. UV damage can cause wrinkles, pigmentation, and premature ageing – not to mention skin cancer!

Check the SunSmart website for more information on staying safe in the sun - http://www.sunsmart.com.au/

Thanks for that Allison!! I wonder though, what are the main advantages and disadvantages of physical blockers v chemical blockers? Is one better than the other for sun protection, or is it just a matter of their suitabilities for different skins?

Thanks for that Allison!! I wonder though, what are the main advantages and disadvantages of physical blockers v chemical blockers? Is one better than the other for sun protection, or is it just a matter of their suitabilities for different skins?
Butting in here :typing:
There are a number of pros and cons for each ingredient.
For example, zinc oxide offers true broad spectrum protection and is non-irritating, but it's very thick in texture and a lot of people don't like that.
There's no single chemical absorber that will give you broad spectrum; you have to combine a few of them.
Chemical absorbers tend to be the culprits behind allergic reactions to sunscreens (octyl methoxycinnamate in particular). But if course if you don't have any sunscreen allergies this is not going to be a problem for you.

Some chemical absorbers are rumoured to have photostability issues - that is, they can break down when exposed to sunlight. (Which is kind of ironic really.) There is a fair bit of debate about Avobenzone/Parsol in particular - some say that it is not photostable and shouldn't be used, some say that it requires the presence of octocrylene in the formulation to stabilise it, and some say that it is perfectly fine and has no proven issues with photostability.

Personally, I feel that the main thing to be concerned about when choosing a sunscreen is getting the best UVA protection that you can. (UVB protection is taken care of as soon as there's an SPF30+ on the label.) My personal preference is for sunscreens that contain one of the following: zinc oxide, Tinosorb M (methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol), or Mexoryl SX (aka Ecamsule).

Further reading:
http://pubs.acs.org/cen/coverstory/83/8315sunscreens.html
http://www.cosmeticscop.com/learn/article.asp?PAGETYPE=ART&REFER=SKIN&ID=135
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Avobenzone

Thanks for the info guys. its such an important subject.

Cool, thanks Kate!! I think I have a pretty high beauty IQ but sunscreen is one of those things I always wonder about and have yet to fully figure out. I'll make it one day though!

Kate, what's your opinion on sunscreens that contain Titanium Dioxide as well as chemical absorbers?

Kate, what's your opinion on sunscreens that contain Titanium Dioxide as well as chemical absorbers?
I have no issue with this, provided that the formula is not relying on the TO2 as its only UVA protection. Oh and one of the articles I linked to above mentions that avobenzone can be unstable when combined with titanium dioxide or zinc.

For example, I quite like the Ego Sunsense Vanishing sunscreen, which combines titanium dioxide with Tinosorb:
• Octyl methoxycinnamate 6%
• Methylene bis-benzotriazol tetramethylbutylphenol 2.5%
• 4-methylbenzylidene camphor 4%
• microfine titanium dioxide 3.7%
• butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane 2.5%

There's also an Ambre Solaire SPF30+ that has Mexoryl and TO2:
Octocrylene 100mg/ml; Titanium Dioxide 55mg/ml, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 25mg/ml, Ecamsule 6mg/ml

Thanks Kate!

well said!!!

:clapping:

I have no issue with this, provided that the formula is not relying on the TO2 as its only UVA protection. Oh and one of the articles I linked to above mentions that avobenzone can be unstable when combined with titanium dioxide or zinc.

For example, I quite like the Ego Sunsense Vanishing sunscreen, which combines titanium dioxide with Tinosorb:
• Octyl methoxycinnamate 6%
• Methylene bis-benzotriazol tetramethylbutylphenol 2.5%
• 4-methylbenzylidene camphor 4%
• microfine titanium dioxide 3.7%
• butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane 2.5%

There's also an Ambre Solaire SPF30+ that has Mexoryl and TO2:
Octocrylene 100mg/ml; Titanium Dioxide 55mg/ml, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 25mg/ml, Ecamsule 6mg/ml

Agree, I also like the Hamilton's Everyday face. I cant wear the Ambre Solaire sunscreens, they make me come up in lumps!

Read something interesting yesterday in April Allure. It suggests that Meroxyl SX is better at blocking UVA rays than its predecessors. Will keep my ear to the ground (or pages!).

Agree, I also like the Hamilton's Everyday face. I cant wear the Ambre Solaire sunscreens, they make me come up in lumps!

Read something interesting yesterday in April Allure. It suggests that Meroxyl SX is better at blocking UVA rays than its predecessors. Will keep my ear to the ground (or pages!).

Hi Luisa

I'm the same - the Ambre Solaire is terrible with me I get the red itchy lumps that last for a day or two and the only relief is an antihistamine that knocks me out so I don't itch! :rollthoseeyes:

I'm naughty :no: as I haven't been using a sunscreen daily as the last few I tried I've had the same reaction to (I've mentioned this on another thread somewhere I'm sure)... but am thinking about going back to the Ego SunSense (think that's the name) as I used this a few years back with no dramas - so fingers crossed.
*mental note to self - must buy sunscreen ASAP*

Invisible Zinc Junior is the BOMB! Brilliant broad spectrum for sensitive skin!

http://www.adorebeauty.com.au/adorebeauty/viewitem.asp?idproduct=9741

Hi Luisa

I'm the same - the Ambre Solaire is terrible with me I get the red itchy lumps that last for a day or two and the only relief is an antihistamine that knocks me out so I don't itch! :rollthoseeyes:

I'm naughty :no: as I haven't been using a sunscreen daily as the last few I tried I've had the same reaction to (I've mentioned this on another thread somewhere I'm sure)... but am thinking about going back to the Ego SunSense (think that's the name) as I used this a few years back with no dramas - so fingers crossed.
*mental note to self - must buy sunscreen ASAP*


I have certainly been more diligent this summer. Try the Hamilton's Daily Face if you cant get the Ego one - they are identical. I have been using a Dr Lewinn's (yes, shock horror!) moisturising sunscreen 30+ after using a sample down at the beach. Not as good value as Megan Gale, this one costs $40 but it has same invisible zinc, still a bit on the greasy side but has been ever so protective.

Thanks Allison & Luisa... I'll go and check out the consistency of them both!

Sunscreen - from the inside??


http://www.cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/news/printNewsBis.asp?id=75629

Interesting.....I remember reading that it wasnt just about the sunscreen, but also some specialists also recommend topical vitamin C an an anti-oxident to neutalise the free-radical damage that UV rays have on your skin, in addition to what we are exposed to outside of just UV rays like general pollution - cigarette smoke, etc

I use the UC Ultra Sheer Vit C under my sunscreen for this very reason. Have you seen the new Clarins Expertise 3P spray? It is supposed to neutralise electromagnetic waves from phone and computers (that have a damaging effect on skin??) but also has free radical fighters, White Tea and Succory Dock-Cress - what will they think of next?!

I use the UC Ultra Sheer Vit C under my sunscreen for this very reason. Have you seen the new Clarins Expertise 3P spray? It is supposed to neutralise electromagnetic waves from phone and computers (that have a damaging effect on skin??) but also has free radical fighters, White Tea and Succory Dock-Cress - what will they think of next?!


OMG!!!:eek: I'm on my computer tight now :ashamed: ....

OMG!!!:eek: I'm on my computer tight now :ashamed: ....

:chuckle: Yeah, me too, funny about that. Actually not funny, spending way too much time on here!

:chuckle: Yeah, me too, funny about that. Actually not funny, spending way too much time on here!

Ah, why not??? Luisa, you and me have Vit C, so we'll be OK!!!!:redcheeks: :chuckle:

Ah, why not??? Luisa, you and me have Vit C, so we'll be OK!!!!:redcheeks: :chuckle:

Yeah, feel better already!:saber:

You know, since I have been wearing SPF daily I have noticed a diference in my skin. My freckles have all faded, almost completely. My skin also seems more stable too. 2 great incentives for you if you're not already converted. join the force! :saber:

New UVA filter on the way...

http://www.cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/news/printNewsBis.asp?id=76843

Just giving this thread a wee bump. It's rolling around to summer, and thought this would be a good reminder for those (naughty) people who aren't yet on the wagon. Get up here with the rest of us quick smart:whipcrack: