James(Admin)
09-10-2006, 05:40 PM
In a nutshell:
Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) and Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs) are used in skincare products to improve the appearance and texture of the skin, by removing dead skin cells and surface debris.
AHAs are water soluble, and are the best option for sun-damaged, thickened and dry skins. BHAs are oil soluble, so they have the added effect of clearing out clogged pores – ideal for skin prone to acne, excessive oiliness and blackheads.
The Basics: AHAs
Types of AHAs include glycolic, lactic, citric, tartaric and malic acids; Glycolic and Lactic are the most commonly used in skincare.
AHAs have an exfoliating effect on the skin, helping to “unglue” dead skin cells that are stuck to the surface, so that newer cells can come through. AHA’s also assist with fine lines, pigmentation and skin texture.
Glycolic Acid has the smallest molecular structure, which means it can offer the most effective penetration; however this also means it can be more likely to irritate the skin.
Lactic Acid has a larger molecular structure than glycolic, and is found naturally in the body so is less likely to irritate. Lactic acid is excellent for dryer skin types because it hydrates as well as exfoliating.
Most over-the-counter AHA products feature concentrations of 5-15% AHA, at varying pH (acidity) levels. Many products feature a “buffered” formulation, which means they have had their pH adjusted higher – this makes them slightly less effective but also less likely to irritate the skin.
The Basics - BHAs
There is only one type of Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA) - Salicylic Acid. Salicylic acid exfoliates the skin like AHAs do, but is oil soluble so is excellent for oily or acne prone skin types to more effectively clear out the pore. BHA also works to improve fine lines, skin texture, blockages and pigmentation.
BHA found in skin-care products works best in a concentration of 1% to 2% and at a pH of 3 to 4.5. The higher the pH, the less effective (but also less aggressive on sensitive skin) the product will be.
Both BHA and AHAs are also effective as ‘carriers’ for the active ingredients in the moisturizer and are often combined in skincare.
AHA and BHA Peels
Alpha and Beta Hydroxy Acids are also used in chemical peels, either alone or combined.
Trained Aestheticians* generally use Hydroxy Acid products that have a concentration of up to 50% in peel formulation for professional in-salon treatments (http://www.adorebeauty.com.au/adorebeauty/askallison_peels.asp).
These chemical peels give results that are similar to microdermabrasion - treating lines, dehydration, acne, pigmentation, sun damaged skin and giving the skin a smoother appearance with repeated applications.
The bottom line:
When dealing with AHAs or BHAs, they are best recommended as part of a personalized skin program for your particular skin to treat your main concerns. Overuse of these ingredients or combining the wrong products together can be dangerous.
Be aware that our skin is on a 28 day cycle where skin cells are replaced. With this in mind, you need to be using any skin care product for 3-6 months before you gain ideal results.
Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) and Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs) are used in skincare products to improve the appearance and texture of the skin, by removing dead skin cells and surface debris.
AHAs are water soluble, and are the best option for sun-damaged, thickened and dry skins. BHAs are oil soluble, so they have the added effect of clearing out clogged pores – ideal for skin prone to acne, excessive oiliness and blackheads.
The Basics: AHAs
Types of AHAs include glycolic, lactic, citric, tartaric and malic acids; Glycolic and Lactic are the most commonly used in skincare.
AHAs have an exfoliating effect on the skin, helping to “unglue” dead skin cells that are stuck to the surface, so that newer cells can come through. AHA’s also assist with fine lines, pigmentation and skin texture.
Glycolic Acid has the smallest molecular structure, which means it can offer the most effective penetration; however this also means it can be more likely to irritate the skin.
Lactic Acid has a larger molecular structure than glycolic, and is found naturally in the body so is less likely to irritate. Lactic acid is excellent for dryer skin types because it hydrates as well as exfoliating.
Most over-the-counter AHA products feature concentrations of 5-15% AHA, at varying pH (acidity) levels. Many products feature a “buffered” formulation, which means they have had their pH adjusted higher – this makes them slightly less effective but also less likely to irritate the skin.
The Basics - BHAs
There is only one type of Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA) - Salicylic Acid. Salicylic acid exfoliates the skin like AHAs do, but is oil soluble so is excellent for oily or acne prone skin types to more effectively clear out the pore. BHA also works to improve fine lines, skin texture, blockages and pigmentation.
BHA found in skin-care products works best in a concentration of 1% to 2% and at a pH of 3 to 4.5. The higher the pH, the less effective (but also less aggressive on sensitive skin) the product will be.
Both BHA and AHAs are also effective as ‘carriers’ for the active ingredients in the moisturizer and are often combined in skincare.
AHA and BHA Peels
Alpha and Beta Hydroxy Acids are also used in chemical peels, either alone or combined.
Trained Aestheticians* generally use Hydroxy Acid products that have a concentration of up to 50% in peel formulation for professional in-salon treatments (http://www.adorebeauty.com.au/adorebeauty/askallison_peels.asp).
These chemical peels give results that are similar to microdermabrasion - treating lines, dehydration, acne, pigmentation, sun damaged skin and giving the skin a smoother appearance with repeated applications.
The bottom line:
When dealing with AHAs or BHAs, they are best recommended as part of a personalized skin program for your particular skin to treat your main concerns. Overuse of these ingredients or combining the wrong products together can be dangerous.
Be aware that our skin is on a 28 day cycle where skin cells are replaced. With this in mind, you need to be using any skin care product for 3-6 months before you gain ideal results.